Quinta da Regaleira & the Hidden Caves Below

By: Caroline Searcy

In Portugal, just eighteen miles and a thirty-five minute train ride away from the country’s capital city of Lisbon lies Sintra. This hidden jewel is a must-see and boasts brightly colored shops and restaurants while also housing several incredible land monuments. Among these are the National Pena Palace and Park, Monserrate Palace, Castle of the Moors, and the National Palace of Sintra, not even to mention the historic downtown center, spattered with shops, restaurants, and pastelerias. 

A stop that cannot be missed in your itinerary on your visit is the Quinta da Regaleira. This large country estate is a scenic ten-minute walk away from Sintra’s downtown. While there is a clear abundance of attractions in Sintra, visitors to the Quinta da Regaleira often spend hours strolling the sprawling grounds of the estate alone. 

On the property of Quinta da Regaleira, there are several stops to hit. The mansion itself, dating back to 1697 and designed by Luigi Manini, paints an exquisite picture of the life of the wealthy in historic Sintra with stunning decor. The Fonte da Abundância, or Fountain of Abundance, is a beautiful, tile-covered site shrouded by the purple bougainvilleas plants that are native to Portugal. The tennis courts, grottos, scenic towers with viewpoints of the grounds and Sintra are peppered throughout the grounds. Below, a map shows the location of the various attractions at the site. 

Arguably the most reverential and breath-taking site on the property is the Poço Imperfeito, or the Initiation Well. Indicating its popularity, there are several signs pointing guests in the direction of the cavern, which is located towards the northern area of the grounds. This particular attraction does typically have a line, but the wait is usually just ten minutes (in fact, the views were so gorgeous, I waited twice to see it again!). 

While the entire peaceful property of Quinta da Regaleira is basked in the sunlight, the Poço Imperfeito is the entrance to a secret underground labyrinth of tunnels that exist under the property. The juxtaposition between the two levels of the property are apparent as soon as visitors step into the Initiation well. Peering over the side of the cool granite down the twenty-seven meter cylindrical drop will give you a feeling of both awe and fear. The descent into the depths of the well on the spiral staircase allows guests to look both up and down as the opening to the sky becomes smaller. The old stone walls are covered in moss and are molded into  beautiful arches, allowing for a panoramic view as you descend. At the base of the Poço Imperfeito, guests can look up towards the entry point and see the sky far above them before continuing into the twists of the caves below. 

The history behind this well is almost as enchanting as the views themself. The structure was actually never intended to be used as a functioning well and instead was used for ceremonial purposes. Many believe that this well has ties to the Tarot principles and the Knights Templar, although the exact use is unknown. Many have compared the experience of traveling through the underground component of the grounds as an allegory for rebirth through Mother Earth herself. Whatever the reasoning behind the well, it has become an incredibly popular location for visitors drawn to its mystical allure. 

The underground labyrinth connected to the Poço Imperfeito has its own wonders as well. The path itself is well lit, illuminating the rocky ceilings and the branching pathways. Once you enter, there will be a pathway leading off to your right (don’t miss this path like I did my first time through!). This walkway leads you to a little cylindrical alcove that opens up meters above to the sky, called the Unfinished Well. The holes in the rock fixtures and the daylight create a beautiful kaleidoscope that makes for a great picture.

Further down the path lies a beautiful waterfall. This was the highlight of the underground tunnels for me, as the behind-the-scenes view gives the visitor a glimpse into the beautiful garden beyond through the falling water from the comfort of the caves. The combination of the two settings not only gives the visitor the full experience, but it makes for a magical picture. 

To exit these mystical underground caverns, you just follow the lighted path past a set of stunning pillars and back into the daylight. The path leads you out to a different part of the grounds, close to other points of interest, such as the Labyrinth Grotto, which is the Lake that feeds into the underground tunnels below. The entrance is unfortunately closed to visitors, but the lakeside, typically muttered with ducks, is a wonderful place to rest and enjoy the views.  

The excursion made to the underground caves at the Quinta da Regaleira is one that is worth the ten euro entrance fee tenfold. The duplicity of the beauty of the grounds in daylight and the air of mystery in the caverns below is one that simply cannot be replicated elsewhere. If you find yourself in Sintra, this is a stop you just can’t miss.